Hard MSA Varnish

GOLDEN Hard Mineral Spirit Acrylic Varnish with UVLS (Ultra Violet Light Stabilizers) dries to a rigid, non-flexible finish. Hard MSA varnish provides excellent dust and mar resistance along with exceptional exterior durability.

Product Description
Isolation Coat
Application
Removal
Technical Data
Disclaimer

PRODUCT DESCRIPTION

GOLDEN Hard MSA Varnish dries to a tough, non-flexible protective finish. The UVLS system provides increased resistance to the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation, making the product suitable for exterior as well as interior application. For restoration purposes, the varnish may be removed with aromatic solvents (See Aging Characteristics and Chemical Resistance sections below).

Hard MSA Varnish can be used over a wide variety of paints, including acrylic, oil, alkyd, egg tempera, watercolor and casein. As a topcoat for acrylics, it provides a harder, lower tack surface that is much less susceptible to dirt and much more mar resistant. When used on an inflexible support it can also be mixed with oil and alkyd paints to accelerate drying and improve resistance to cracking. For recommended ratios of Hard MSA Varnish and oil/alkyd paints, please refer to our MSA Gel (Mineral Spirits) Product Information Sheet.

Hard MSA Varnish (Gloss) dries to a highly reflective finish. Hard MSA Varnish (Satin) offers moderate reflection, similar to most matte varnishes. The Hard MSA Varnish (Matte) finish is exceptionally flat. The different finishes can be intermixed, or used sequentially, to achieve the desired sheen.

TEST FOR YOUR APPLICATION

Prior to actual use, it is very important to experiment with Golden varnishes on test pieces to become aware of how they perform and how they alter the surface appearance of paintings. For best results, apply to a test piece that is similar in composition as the artwork to be varnished. This will help ensure that all variables are accounted for, and a successful varnish application will be achieved.

ISOLATION COAT

Only intended for acrylic paintings, do not use on oil paintings.

For future conservation and varnish removal purposes we recommend the use of an isolation coat prior to varnishing. An isolation coat is a permanent, non-removable coating that serves to physically separate the paint surface from the removable varnish. This will help protect the surface if the varnish is ever removed and make future cleaning and conservation easier to avoid working directly on top of the pigmented part of the work. Therefore, even if painted with delicate washes or large areas of colors that could potentially bleed, a clear barrier would safely cover the painted surface. It will also seal absorbent areas, which will result in a more even application of the varnish. In the event that no varnish gets applied, the isolation coat serves to decrease the water sensitivity of the paint surface, affording protection during routine cleaning/dusting.

Given the current state of conservation science, we feel the use of an isolation coat provides the most protection. However, isolation coats are also significant and permanent additions to a painting and inevitably will cause changes in the painting's surface qualities. Whether these changes are acceptable is an aesthetic decision that each artist needs to make after sufficient testing. In addition, since it is non-removable, any mistakes or problems during this procedure cannot be easily corrected and there is always an element of risk that needs to be considered. We strongly encourage the artist to practice these procedures thoroughly so they feel confident and become familiar with any unforeseen problems. If you have any questions or concerns regarding the proper use or application of an isolation coat, please call Golden’s Technical Support Department at (800) 959-6543.

For brush application, the appropriate isolating medium can be made by diluting Golden Soft Gel Gloss with water (2 parts by volume Soft Gel Gloss to 1 part water). If a spray application is desired, a 2:1 mixture of Golden GAC-500 to Transparent Airbrush Extender can be applied with an airbrush, touch-up spray unit or commercial spray equipment. The absorbency of the surface will dictate the number of isolation layers required. For relatively non-absorbent surfaces, as is the case with a uniform paint layer, one coat brush applied or two coats spray applied are recommended. For more absorbent surfaces, which tend to be very matte, it is recommended to apply sufficient isolation coats to achieve a satin sheen on the surface. This may require two or more brush applied coats or three or more spray applications.

The isolating layer is of critical importance when applying a matte varnish over an absorbent surface to prevent a cloudy or "frosted" appearance from occurring. This frosted appearance results from the varnish and solvent being absorbed into the support, while the matting agent remains exposed on the surface. While we have carefully selected the matting agent that is in Golden varnishes to be as transparent as possible, it is still a dry particulate material. When the matting agent is deposited onto the surface, and is not a part of a continuous varnish layer, it appears as a white solid. If varnishing water-soluble paints, including watercolor, gouache and tempera, the isolation coat must be sprayed on in very light layers to avoid solubilizing the paints, which could cause loss of distinctness of the underlying image.

PRODUCT APPLICATION

Hard MSA Varnish must be thinned before use . Hard MSA Varnish has been made thicker than the traditional application viscosity to maintain an even suspension of the solids within the varnish. Often, particularly in matte finishes, settling can result in streaking within the varnish film.

Thinning : Material can be thinned with mineral spirits or turpentine as needed (do not use “odorless” solvents). A 20% to 30% dilution provides ease of brushing (a 3:1 mixture of varnish to thinner is a good starting point). For spray application further thinning may be required (adding up to equal parts varnish and thinner).

Stir thoroughly before using . Apply only to rigid substrates. Apply varnish as evenly and as smoothly as possible. Avoid heavy build-ups. Maintaining a wet edge when overlapping will yield the most even finish. If applying multiple coats, avoid overworking the wet varnish to minimize resolubilizing of the previous coats. Allow previous coats to dry thoroughly before recoating.

Drying/Curing Time: Usually becomes tack-free and suitable for recoating after 3-6 hours. Most curing will occur within two weeks. May be mixed with oils or alkyds to modify viscosity, drying time or improve resistance to cracking.

Coverage: 400-500 sq. ft. per gallon if by brush application; 800-1000 sq. ft. per gallon for spray application.

This product is intended for a final picture varnish only! Do not repaint surface. Hard MSA Varnish should not be mixed with acrylic emulsion polymer paints or mediums. Clean tools with mineral spirits or other appropriate solvent immediately after use.

It is preferable to brush or spray apply Golden varnishes. Other methods, such as sponging or rolling, are not recommended, as they may result in problems such as: foaming, loss of film clarity, non-uniform coverage, excessive film build, sagging, or deposition of materials from the application tool.

Brush Application

Use a stiff, white hair, Chinese bristle brush with split ends. The split ends and memory of this type of brush will result in a smooth, even coat of varnish. The size of the piece to be varnished will determine the size of the varnish brush. Work from a shallow container to help control brush loading. The varnish solution should wet only the lower 25-30% of the length of the bristles. It is always best to apply the varnish on a horizontal surface in order to minimize running or sagging. If vertical application cannot be avoided, as with a mural, it is extremely important that the varnish be thinly applied. In either case, it is better to apply two or three thin coats with sufficient drying time in between, rather than one thick coat of varnish. The latter will take longer to cure, staying soft for some time, and could result in drips or a cloudy film. Apply the varnish in a manner that allows it to be brushed out to the most uniform, thinnest film possible. Mentally divide the work into regions to be covered by each loading of the brush. These may be based on a systematic grid-like sequence or may follow natural boundaries of the piece. Maintain an even application by working from the center of each region outward. Lightly overlap into still wet, adjacent sections. When applying a satin or matte varnish, never apply more than two coats. If multiple coats are desired, start with the gloss varnish to build up and establish the multiple layers, then finish with one or two coats of the satin or matte finish. A thick film of these reduced sheen varnishes will result in film cloudiness, and loss of clarity.

Spray Application

The best way to achieve an even coating of varnish is to spray apply. This is particularly true for impasto surfaces. Spray application is required for any surface where the paint film is fragile, such as gouache, and should not be touched by application tools. Spraying is also a useful technique for creating a matte surface. The size of the surface to be sprayed will determine the best type of spray equipment to use. These varnishes can be sprayed from an airbrush, airless or air pressured spray equipment, or refillable aerosol equipment. In preparation for spraying, make sure all equipment is free of dirt. Work in an area free of dust and dirt and keep work off the ground when spraying. Spray three to four light even coats instead of one or two thicker applications, allowing enough time for drying between coats (1-4 hours, until surface is tack free). Release the spray trigger if the motion of the airbrush is stopped during application in order to avoid an uneven build of varnish in one spot. Maintain uniform distance from the surface, and avoid the tendency to use an arcing motion. Make straight passes across the work, changing direction once the spray has cleared the edge of the piece being varnished. Slightly overlap the spray pattern with each pass, until the entire piece has been covered. To aid in achieving a more even application, turn the painting 90 degrees in order to apply the subsequent coat perpendicular to the previous one. A typical spray application lays down a film only 1/6 to 1/4 the thickness of a brush coat application. If maximum protection is required of the varnish layer, apply multiple coats. This is especially important when protecting colorants that are not inherently lightfast, as the thicker the total varnish film, the greater the protection from ultraviolet radiation. Because it is not recommended to apply several coats of a satin or matte finish, underlying layers should be established using a gloss varnish.

Cleanup

Clean all equipment immediately following application. Golden Hard MSA Varnish should be cleaned from tools with the same solvent used for thinning, followed by soapy water wash and clear water rinse.

Drying Time

The isolation coat should cure for 1 day before varnishing. When building up multiple coats, allow for 3 - 6 hours in between coats. Gently inspect the surface for tack, which may signify that the coat is not sufficiently dry. Let varnish cure several days before packing or transporting art. During transportation and storage, avoid contact of the surface with packing materials, including glassine, bubble wrap or any other plastic. NEVER STACK PAINTINGS, whether varnished or not.

Care and Storage

As Golden Varnishes are removable, it is important that they not be painted over. Paint applied over the varnish would also be potentially removable, and would pose a difficult problem in conservation or restoration attempts. Another negative about painting over the varnish is that it does not bond sufficiently, which may result in adhesion failure over time.

VARNISH TROUBLE-SHOOTING

If milkiness or opacity occurs in varnish layer, then

if using a satin or matte varnish, and this only occurs over dark colors, this may simply be the nature of such a reduced sheen varnish (caused by the presence of the matting agent). There is no way of applying a satin/matte finish to a dark color without lightening it (the more matte the finish, the more potential for lightening dark areas). To restore the depth of the dark colors, apply a higher gloss to restore some of the sheen.
if this is uniform across much of area, regardless of the darkness of the underlying colors, it may be caused by moisture entrapment. High humidity or a damp surface under the varnish layer, often causes loss of clarity. Using a warm, forced air source to blow across the surface should help the moisture evaporate, restoring clarity.
if varnish is not properly thinned, or is shaken or stirred excessively, air bubbles may become trapped within the dry film, causing a loss of clarity. The varnish must be removed.
if a "frosted" area appears, a satin or matte varnish may have been applied over an absorbent surface (this is common for spray applications). The varnish must be removed, the surface sealed to reduce absorbency (apply gloss varnish), followed by application of a reduced sheen varnish.

If reflectance is not uniform, then

if surface has varying absorbency, this may result in uneven gloss. Ideally, such a surface would first have isolation coat applied to provide a more uniform surface. However if varnish has already been applied, the surface must be sealed by applying 1 or more additional coats of gloss varnish, followed by the desired sheen varnish.

improper mix of varnish. The varnish/solvent mixture was not thoroughly mixed. If different sheens were blended together (gloss with matte), they may not have been thoroughly mixed. If the diluted varnish is used over a long period of time without restirring, it may be separating (matting agents settling). To achieve a uniform finish, start with a fresh mixture of varnish/solvent (thoroughly stirred) and apply another coat (may also consider removing the existing varnish layers).

If brush strokes remain, then

the varnish may not have been thinned sufficiently to level during application.
the solvent was not compatible with the varnish.
if the surface was absorbent, it may have caused the varnish to dry too quickly, and not allow it to level.

If the Hard MSA Varnish will not thin down, then

solvent is not strong enough to be compatible. Use a stronger solvent (distilled turpentine, toluene, etc.)

When spraying, if the surface is very pebbly or textured, then

the varnish may have dried before reaching the surface. This could be caused by insufficient thinning (add more solvent), an extremely dry environment (add humidity, reduce heat, limit air flow) or by excessive air flow (reduce air pressure).

If the varnish is sinking in and not developing sufficient gloss, then

the surface is too absorbent. Apply additional coats of isolating layers (only if no varnish is yet applied) or gloss varnish. Excessive dilution of varnish may also result in this problem.

If the varnished surface is too glossy, then

apply a satin or matte finish of the same kind of varnish already applied.

If the varnished surface is too matte, then

apply a gloss or satin finish of the same kind of varnish already applied.

REMOVAL PROCEDURE

Technical Support is available to answer questions at (800) 959-6543 or by emailing techsupport@goldenpaints.com.

Removing a varnish is a very consequential process that should not be taken lightly, as the appearance of the artwork can be changed, or damage could result from improper handling. The task is often best left to a professional conservator, particularly with works of special significance or unknown composition. However, there are times, as when something has gone amiss in the application, that it may be appropriate for the artist to do the work.

As the Hard MSA Varnish is not readily resoluble in mineral spirits, stronger aromatic solvents will likely be required (like toluene). However, note that such stronger solvents also pose more risk in damaging the paint layer under the varnish (for acrylics, the presence of an isolation coat would provide greater protection to the paint surface). Hence, caution and a light hand are recommended when using such solvent to remove varnish.

Before embarking on a varnish removal mission, carefully consider the materials that are to be used, and how they can be used in a safe, controlled manner. Varnish removal requires the use of solvents, thus requiring proper personal protective equipment. Such equipment includes, but is not restricted to: an appropriate respirator, impervious gloves and aprons, and chemical splash goggles or face shield.Careful inspection of the labels on the solvents to be used should help you to determine your safety needs. Also, work in an area with adequate ventilation and guard against ignition sources and high temperatures, which could cause vapors to ignite.

First, test the solvent on a small area of the painting, or preferably on a test piece, to determine its effectiveness at dissolving the varnish. Another quick check may be made by mixing the solvent into the wet varnish. If the varnish becomes thinner, the solvent is compatible. If the varnish gets cloudy and/or thicker, the solvent is not compatible and should be avoided. Unfortunately, there is no way of knowing without trying.

A good procedure for removing the varnish is to start with a soft, low lint cloth (50/50 cotton/polyester T-shirt material works well). Saturate this cloth in solvent and lay over an area of the varnished surface. If possible, work with the painting in a horizontal position, on a table or floor. If the work must be done vertically, as on a wall, a method would have to be devised for keeping the saturated cloth in contact with the varnished surface. In either case, to minimize solvent evaporation, use a plastic sheet to blanket the saturated cloth.

Work in areas no larger than 2 feet per application. Larger areas tend to become cumbersome and make thorough varnish removal difficult. Allow the saturated cloth to lie on the painting for 5-10 minutes, then remove the cloth and use a clean solvent-dampened cloth to gently pat the surface to remove the varnish. Hard MSA Varnish self-cross-links over time, and depending upon physical age, may need longer saturation periods or stronger solvents. If this product does not seem to be affected by mineral spirits or turpentine, we suggest consulting a conservator before further removal attempts. Excessive force may damage the paint layers below the varnish. Repeat this process until the entire painting surface has been treated.

After a single treatment over the complete surface of the painting, some residual varnish may remain. This may be indicated by an extremely tacky or gummy surface. Repeat the procedure, and continue doing so until the varnish has been sufficiently removed. Proceeding with more solvent exposure may result in some swelling of the paint layer.

The solvent-soaked cloth and leftover solvent should be handled and disposed of carefully. Never pour solvent down the drain. Small quantities can be allowed to evaporate. Larger quantities can be saved for reuse or treated as hazardous waste. The cloth should be allowed to dry completely in a well-ventilated area before disposal or putting into storage for another use.

TECHNICAL DATA

Adhesion: Adheres to most non-oily surfaces, including most plastics and degreased metals. May exhibit poor adhesion to fresh (unpolymerized) oil films or even acrylic paints, if residual surfactants are present.

Aging Characteristics: Accelerated and intensified aging tests of this varnish indicate it resists yellowing under long-term conditions of interior exposure. While Hard MSA Varnish is a soluble resin packed in mineral spirits (actually Stoddard solvent), after the film cures, it quickly loses solubility in mineral spirits and turpentine. Whether this is do to cross-linking with age, or is simply the result of further film consolidation as the polymers pack more tightly, we cannot be certain. Regardless, for film removal, strong solvents such as toluene will need to be used, possibly with longer solvent saturation times. Care will need to be exercised in such varnish removal since stronger solvents will have greater potential of damaging the underlying paint surfaces (regardless of type).

Appearance: Excellent clarity when wet and when fully cured.

Chemical Resistance: Resoluble in certain strong solvents (benzene and related aromatics, acetone, methylene chloride, ketones, alcohols). Resistant to water and household cleaning compounds.

DISCLAIMER

The above information is based on research and testing done by Golden Artist Colors, Inc., and is provided as a basis for understanding the potential uses of the products mentioned. Due to the numerous variables in methods, materials and conditions of producing art, Golden Artist Colors, Inc. cannot be sure the product will be right for you. Therefore, we urge product users to test each application to ensure all individual project requirements are met. While we believe the above information is accurate, WE MAKE NO EXPRESS OR IMPLIED WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE, and we shall in no event be liable for any damages (indirect, consequential, or otherwise) that may occur as a result of a product application.