A restaurant would like to use GOLDEN Acrylics (pink color) painted on their smoking stack (tinplate), but they need the paints to be 100^o C heat-resistant. Does GOLDEN Acrylics have this character?
The acrylic used in the Heavy Body Acrylics is reported to be resistant to 375 degrees Fahrenheit. At this temperature, the binder begins to break down. 100 degrees C = 212 degrees F, so physically the paint should be fine. However, the acrylics we use are thermoplastic, which means at warmer temperatures they soften. This may lead to early dirt and dust retention. We would suggest to add GAC 200 (up to 75% of total mixture) to increase hardness. It will also promote better adhesion to the tin surface. We would also advise to use the Pyrrole Red or Red Light color, as these resist fading from sunlight the best.

I want to paint on metal and make it waterproof. What products do you recommend?
If the surface is properly primed, you can get excellent adhesion of the acrylics to the metal. XIM makes a product called UMA (urethane modified acrylic) that is water-based and comes in white and clear. This would be a good primer for the acrylics to adhere to. You could also use a blend of GOLDEN GAC 200 and another medium, such as Polymer Medium, GAC 500 or GAC 100. The GAC 200 is a very hard acrylic, and promotes adhesion to metal.

What mediums would I use to paint on metals such as copper and aluminum with oil and acrylic paint.
Metals commonly require degreasing with a solvent or isopropyl alcohol, priming with either an alkyd primer or urethane modified acrylic (UMA), and then a coat or two of Acrylic Gesso. Light sanding of the metal and primer coats is suggested for best adhesion. Copper usually needs a solvent-based primer as it can tarnish readily. Add GOLDEN GAC 200 to the Gesso and subsequent paints (up to 75% GAC 200) to increase hardness and adhesion to non-porous substrates like metal.

I am trying to find out the choices of paints for airbrushing motorcycle surfaces. Could you please tell us about your products and what you would recommend?
The key to using acrylics for automotive applications is to sandwich the acrylics between two like layers of paint. For example, 2 part urethanes like Dupont Imron. If a tank already has the paint and clear coats applied, you want to thoroughly sand the part like you were getting ready to shoot another layer of clear on it. Next, do the artwork with acrylics. We find both the Fluid Acrylics (mixed with Airbrush Medium and/or Airbrush Transparent Extender) and the Airbrush Colors can work well for this application. We try to use lots of Extender between paint layers or mixed with the acrylics to increase the film durability, especially when masking is involved. Once you have completed the artwork, allow a day to dry and clear coat. It's important to know what paint or clear is underneath the acrylic so the final clearcoats solvent doesn't attack the underlying paint film. The acrylics should not be effected by most solvents used in clears.

While researching gloss coats for some helmets I've painted I ran across the Web site from Gina G. (ginag.com) who uses only GOLDEN paints. Can you please tell me which of your airbrush acrylic colors are most compatible with two-part automotive urethane clearcoating?
Gina uses the Fluid Acrylics mixed with Airbrush Medium. This mix can be used for Automotive, textile, murals and other fine art applications. The Airbrush Colors can be used with the Fluids for ready to spray paints. The Airbrush Carbon Black and Titanium White are exceptionally good spraying paints. The use with automotive products is essentially sandwiching the acrylics between two layers of the same material. Priming, base color and even a coat or two of auto urethanes to start, then abrade the surface as you would for another urethane coat. This surface should take the acrylics very well. Once the artwork is complete and allowed to cure for a day or so, then the final coat(s) of urethane clear are applied.

Yes acrylics are going to be somewhat fragile until they are cleared, but once topcoated, they are permanent. The advantage is the artist can work with safer products for the artistic part of the mural and then use conventional automotive products for their durability. Many of the pigments GOLDEN uses are the same ones used in quality automotive paints and are rated Lightfastness I & II; most are rated I. We suggest for any outdoor application to use just the Lightfastness I rated pigments. In the information you'll be getting, the Pigment Identification Chart will indicate what pigments can be used.

I saw on a site that they used GOLDEN airbrush paint for the murals on the cars, what kind do I need? And how long will it hold up? Is it just as good as lacquer paint that I was going to use?
GOLDEN Products can be used for automotive applications (hoods, gas tanks, helmets, etc.). The key is they are "sandwiched" between two layers of the same kind of automotive products, such as Dupont Imron clear coats. The method we use is to sand/abrade the base layer (can be paint or clear coat) then apply the acrylics and let them cure for a couple of days. Finally, apply a like clear coat to seal in the acrylics. The automotive products should not affect the acrylics, but you do need to slowly build up the clearcoats. The pigments GOLDEN uses are very lightfast, either rated I or II, with the exception of the Fluorescent and Phosphorescent pigments. Most GOLDEN product lines can be used for this application, such as the Fluids, Airbrush Colors, and Iridescents.

I picked up Black, Umber and Stainless Steel acrylic paint and hoping to repaint my heavy gauge metal chairs and table base with them. Will this be okay on metal? How should I prepare the surface to start? How do I seal it and do you think this will hold up?
The first step is to either prime or abrade the existing surface. If the chairs are in good shape, with little if any existing paint coming off of them, you can simply roughen up the surface. If however, the existing paint is in poor condition, I suggest sanding until you have removed any questionable paint films, possibly right down to the base metal.

Over this sanded surface, or unprimed surface (which if smooth should also be abraded for best adhesion), you can apply a quality, commercial grade metal primer. There are several kinds on the market. The most prevalent are alkyd based and Urethane-modified acrylics.

Once these have cured sufficiently per product directions, the acrylic paints can be applied. GAC 200 is an excellent medium to add to the paints. It's a much harder acrylic than we normally use in our flexible products. Blended at a 1:1 ratio, you will increase film hardness, lower tack, and promote better adhesion. These paints should dry for at least 24 hours if not longer, before applying the final protective layers.

The best recommendation would be a 2-part system, such as Urethane, or a good quality non-yellowing Polyurethane. The paints alone would be subject to wear much faster without such a sealer.